AI-generated fashion models offer brands a cost-effective way to create realistic images for their retail sites, potentially saving over 90% compared to traditional photo shoots with human models. However, this technology poses a serious threat to the modeling industry, as there are few regulations on the ownership and use of digital replicas. Models risk their images being used without payment or being replaced by entirely synthetic models.
To explore this issue, Reuters interviewed 15 model-agency directors and examined several confidential contracts from brands like Diesel, Calvin Klein, and L’Oreal. These contracts often included requests for rights to alter models’ images using AI, create digital clones without extra pay, and use models’ images to train AI, with legal terms that give brands significant freedom in using AI.
While some brands still utilize existing models, others are fully adopting AI-generated ones. As AI usage grows, modeling agencies are facing declining job opportunities, and models may lose a substantial part of their income. Adot Gak, a London-based model, warns that the industry could see fewer jobs soon, particularly in e-commerce. Some fast-fashion brands have already implemented AI models, while high-end labels are proceeding slowly. Gak points out that the distinction between real and AI models is becoming increasingly blurred.
AI is changing the fashion industry by allowing retailers to reuse and alter models’ images at a lower cost than traditional photoshoots. Patrick Staal, owner of Uniko Models in Barcelona, explains that some brands request changes to models’ faces and bodies after photoshoots or ask to create “digital twins” of models for future use without new production. For example, Italian brand Diesel included clauses in their casting sheets allowing for alterations of facial features and body proportions, as well as swapping faces among models. Diesel’s parent company, OTB, stated that this release was for a specific campaign and that they do not routinely modify models with AI.
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On the other hand, skincare brand Reale Actives sought rights to create AI-generated replicas of models for a year in their contracts. However, they claim to use real models and not AI replicas, stating the contract language came from a partner production company. Some contracts, like one from Calvin Klein, allow for the use of models’ images to train AI tools, which raises concerns. A representative from Calvin Klein mentioned they are exploring AI while respecting models’ rights.
Many contracts are vague and could permit broader use of models’ images than intended, according to Melanie Howard, a lawyer in the fashion industry. For instance, L’Oreal’s contract asked for the right to modify images using AI for cosmetic products, yet L’Oreal claims to only use standard editing tools that do not alter the model’s image.
Companies like Zalando are openly using AI to reduce costs and have closed traditional photo studios. Zalando’s subsidiary, About You, started a business creating digital imagery with AI models, claiming a production cost reduction of over 90%. They highlight the efficiency of AI in the fast-paced e-commerce environment.
While regulations have not kept up with the rapid advancements in AI usage in modeling, the New York State Fashion Workers Act aims to protect models’ rights by prohibiting the creation or modification of their images without explicit consent from June 2025. Sara Ziff, founder of the Model Alliance, emphasizes the increased urgency for protections against misuse of models’ images due to AI. The British Fashion Model Agents Association is developing guidelines but notes the lack of binding regulations leaves models vulnerable. Staal points out that many young models may not grasp the long-term implications of signing away their AI rights.
With information from Reuters
