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The New Breitling Chronomat Collection

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The Chronomat holds a significant place in Breitling’s history. Introduced in 1984, when extra-thin quartz timepieces were the order of the day, Breitling placed a bold bet on an impressive mechanical watch that proved to be a winner and became an icon of its era. Nearly 40 years later, the redesigned Chronomat is set to appeal to today’s generation of men and women of purpose, action, and style.

The new Breitling Chronomat is truly an all-purpose sports watch, at home both on the red carpet and at the beach. Its features recall the classic namesake from the 1980s and make it instantly recognizable. The eye-catching Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp perfectly expresses Breitling’s modern-retro style, as does the signature rotating bezel with rider tabs. The new Chronomat celebrates a significant time in Breitling’s history while projecting a clear vision for the future.

When the Breitling Chronomat was launched in 1984, it marked a welcome return to mechanical Swiss watches, which had all but disappeared when quartz watches dominated the marketplace in the 1970s. Inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch, which had been developed and launched in 1983 in collaboration with the famed Italian aerial squadron of the same name, the Chronomat celebrated Breitling’s centenary in style and marked the return of the mechanical chronograph on which the brand had built its global reputation to its rightfully prominent place. This technical legacy, combined with particularly stylish design codes, made the Chronomat the ultimate sport-chic watch of its era, an expression of aesthetics and confidence that made the chronograph “cool” again. 

While the Chronomat has long been established as the watch of choice for aviators, it also found a passionate following among people whose adventures took place not only in the air, but also on land and at sea – above and below the surface. In fact, its versatility added to its allure in the late 1980s and early 1990s as its tachymeter attracted the interest of Formula 1 teams, while its reversible rider tabs made it ideally suited to regattas. 

Today’s passionate and fashionable adventurers will certainly be equally drawn to the new Chronomat Collection, whose watches perfectly reflect Breitling’s commitment to creating authentic, everyday luxury for men and women of purpose, action, and style. The new Chronomat, redesigned in 2020 with some updated twists on the original, capitalizes on the watch’s signature design elements and spirit.

Breitling CEO Georges Kern says: “The 1984 Chronomat occupies a very important place in our modern history. It was the watch that boldly proclaimed Breitling was staying absolutely true to its roots. When much of the industry focused their efforts and energies on quartz watches, the Chronomat reminded the world that Breitling had essentially invented the modern mechanical chronograph. The message resonated and the brand prospered. The Chronomat Collection is a fitting tribute to the amazing watch that, more than any other, put us back in touch with our heritage.”

Breitling had used the name Chronomat for some of its 1940s watches, and, in those early days, the word was a portmanteau of “chronograph for mathematics”. The 1984 Chronomat expressed something different: “chronograph” and “automatic”, a name that called attention to the self-winding mechanical movement powering the watch. 

Meet the Breitling Chronomat Collection – Iconic Design Details and a Place in Watchmaking History

The Chronomat Collection introduces a new generation to the watch that underscored Breitling’s bold decision to return to its rightful place as a producer of great mechanical chronographs. Every Chronomat has features that make it instantly recognizable: 

  • The signature rotating bezel is highlighted by rider tabs, which not only protect the crystal but make the manipulation of the bezel easier.
  • The rider tabs at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, true to the original, are interchangeable, so the wearer can use them either for a “count up” or “count down” function. 
  • The highly recognizable stainless-steel integrated Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp. 

Each chronograph in the new collection is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, an in-house mechanical movement that delivers an impressive power reserve of about 70 hours. It is worth noting that, when Breitling launched its in-house Manufacture Caliber 01 more than ten years ago, it was introduced in the Chronomat 01.

The hands of every Chronomat B01 42 are coated with Super-LumiNova®, a luminescent material that enhances legibility in all lighting conditions. All of the models except for the Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition have a red chronograph second hand, which also contributes to easy readability. 

Like all Breitling watches, the Chronomats are COSC-­certified chronometers, an independent confirmation of their precision. All of the models are water-resistant to 20 bar (200 meters).

Your Perfect Chronomat Is Here

The watches in the Chronomat Collection are available with a range of different metal and dial options, assuring that at least one of them will be perfectly at home on your wrist, whether you wear it to the beach, your workplace, or the next awards ceremony.

One version of the Chronomat B01 42 has a 42-millimeter stainless-steel case with a choice of a silver, copper, or blue dial with black contrasting chronograph count­ers. It is also available with a black dial with silver contrasting chronograph counters. Each model is presented on a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

The Chronomat Bentley celebrates Breitling’s partnership with the great British luxury car brand. It has a 42-millimeter stainless-steel case with a green dial and black contrasting chronograph counters. This watch, presented on a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp, features a “BENTLEY” engraving around the transparent sapphire caseback.

It was Breitling’s 1983 Frecce Tricolori watch that inspired the Chronomats introduced a year later to celebrate the brand’s centenary. The new Chronomat Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition has a blue dial featuring tone-on-tone subdials and the Frecce Tricolori logo on the dial, positioned where the Breitling logo is normally placed. This stunning tribute to the great aerial squadron is limited to 250 pieces, and its caseback is engraved with the words “ONE OF 250.” Like the rest of the collection, it is presented on a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

Chronomat enthusiasts looking for an extra touch of luxury will be drawn to the Chronomat B01 42 fitted with an 18 k red gold crown and pushers and a bezel with 18 k red gold rider tabs, numerals, and indexes. This stunning model has a silver dial with silver tone-on-tone subdials and a 42-millimeter stainless-steel case, and is presented on a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp. 

Another striking two-tone Chronomat features either an elegant blue dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters or an anthracite dial with black contrasting chronograph counters. It is highlighted by an 18 k red gold ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel and an 18 k red gold crown and pushers. This model is presented on a riveting stainless-steel and 18 k red gold Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

Finally, for someone who wants to take sporty luxury to a whole new level, there is also a Chronomat B01 42 with a striking 18 k red gold case presented on a black rubber strap with an 18 k red gold folding clasp. It has an anthracite dial with black contrasting chronograph counters.

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Dongyu Zhou wears Constellation

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Award-winning Chinese actress Dongyu Zhou wears OMEGA’s Constellation Small Seconds.

A winner of multiple domestic and foreign film awards, Dongyu Zhou is an accomplished actress capable of delivering convincing and critically acclaimed performances ranging in genres from crime thriller to romantic comedy.

Her many accolades include the Best Actress award at the 53rd Golden Horse Awards in 2016 for her impressive performance in Soul Mate, and best actress for Better Days at the 39th Hong Kong Film Awards and 33rd Golden Rooster Awards.

As Dongyu Zhou is the youngest actress to have been honoured with the three most significant film accolades in the history of Chinese film, her choice of watch proves that the timeless OMEGA is never out of step with style.

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A New Tribe Lands As An Icon Ascends

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Roger Dubuis has consistently demonstrated a penchant for impertinence and extravagance. Sustained by an integrated manufacture, a flagrant disregard for convention is the backbone of its bold attitude. A true innovator, the luxury watchmaker is driven by an irrepressible willingness to come up with high-impact ideas, boundary-pushing technologies and unmistakable out-of-the-box designs. Living by the motto NO RULES, OUR GAME, the Maison proves once again it is the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology with the launch of the new Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon.

THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY IS HERE

Extravagant, determined and disruptive, the bold and bright are the ones that stand out. Just like any star should. But a star doesn’t just appear. It takes dedication. Innovation. Craftsmanship. Only then can an icon ascend…Introducing the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon: a star restyled for the new world. To mark the launch of the inimitable skeleton design reinterpreted with a contemporary touch, Roger Dubuis is set to celebrate modern art in all its shapes. Taking form in Hyper Horology with the Maison’s most recent interpretation of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon, this icon of watchmaking is brought to a whole new level; a masterpiece that cannot be ignored, just like its wearer.

Finding kinship with those disruptive souls who dare to make a difference, the Maison partners with the URBAN ART TRIBE, world-famous urban culture artists that reflect Roger Dubuis’ values: break the rules, showcase radical expertise and obsess daily over the design of the future.

THE EXCALIBUR SINGLE FLYING TOURBILLON: FROM A TIMEPIECE TO A MASTERPIECE

Roger Dubuis continues shaking up the world of haute horlogerie with the launch of the new Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon. Enhanced with meticulous care, the timepiece is reinterpreted with sophistication and flair using modern and technical materials.

A contemporary masterpiece for the wrist, the new design showcases clean cut lines on both case and movement. Creating the impression of a thinner look and feel, while heightening the sense of transparency and depth, the calibre is rebuilt from bottom to top in an architectural feat that sees the Roger Dubuis star now levitate freely above the barrel. A strong visual identity is created with a signature two-line pattern – seen between the notch on the crown and bezel, the star’s arms, the tourbillon’s cage, the hour’s marking on the flange, the hands – all of which cleverly appear as though they will meet but never do. This dynamic aesthetic is amplified by the Poinçon de Genève, the most demanding signature in fine watchmaking and one that requires the manual decoration of each and every component of the watch, as well as unexpected and antinomic decorations in modern haute horlogerie, such as circular-brushed top surfaces and polished angles that demonstrate Roger Dubuis’ visionary approach.

Always keeping the wearer in mind, the new RD512SQ calibre is stunning in its technical prowess. Now with a titanium lower tourbillon cage – twice lighter than stainless steel – and a mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome upper tourbillon cage, the weight of the piece is reduced to optimum effect. All of which allows the power reserve to be radically optimised to 72 hours, providing the option of leaving the watch unworn over weekends without the worry of resetting come Monday. Proving no detail goes unconsidered, non-magnetic material is used inside the tourbillon to better serve the wearers and improve their experience.

Comfort is key, which is why a range of entirely new strap sizes have become available. With 5 sizes from 0 to 4, finding the perfect strap ensures the buckle is always centred on the wrist, as a Quick Release System offers ultimate flexibility. Underscored by rarity, the 42mm case is only available in eighty-eight pieces per colourway: Dark Grey DLC Titanium, Cobalt Chrome CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM and the new EON GOLD, a pink gold shade that remains more stable thanks to non-tarnish technology. Reimagined for a contemporary era, an icon ascends in the shape of the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon.

THE ART OF GLOW

Showcasing the Maison’s obsession with art, light and luminescence, in addition to our icons comes the Excalibur Glow Me Up, a world-premiere for Roger Dubuis limited to just eight timepieces.

By day, the new Single Flying Tourbillon calibre is elegantly adorned with 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel. By night, it’s a complete different version that comes to life through this vibrant timepiece with luminescent and dazzling diamonds, an achievement made possible thanks to an intricate two-part process. The first involves filling the grooves that hold the stones in place with Super-Luminova, a singular way to make the diamonds appear luminescent without altering them. Secondly, an additional patent enables Super-Luminova to be applied on the angles of the movement, as well as to the iconic star-shaped bridge. Because at Roger Dubuis less is never more.

ART IN THE MAKING

Roger Dubuis is a destination for the avant-garde. Committed to non-conformity, the Maison stands with those who choose to blaze their own trail. To show what happens when rules are rejected and creativity is unleashed, Roger Dubuis partners with the URBAN ART TRIBE, composed of two urban culture creatives – tattoo artist Dr. Woo and graffiti artist Gully. Rulebreakers in their own fields, they too shape the future by refusing to take ‘no’ for an answer. Brought together to unite a wider community of daring minds, Roger Dubuis and the URBAN ART TRIBE hope to encourage people to challenge the way things are, just as the Maison does when it comes to Hyper Horology, and Dr. Woo and Gully do in their industries.

A leading name among an influential elite who see tattoos, art and fashion as an indissociable whole, Dr. Woo’s singular approach to needle style has shifted the paradigm for tattoos, taking them from subculture to broad popular appeal. Of the partnership he says: “I’ve taken this path because I don’t know where it leads, and that is exactly why I’m here – to seek the unknown and go out of my comfort zone. Tattooing and watchmaking have that in common: the same attention to detail, a dot vs. a tiny component, assembled perfectly for you to see the bigger picture.”

Gully, a well-known graffiti artist, chooses to work exclusively in his own atelier to maintain his anonymity. He uses a wide variety of mixed techniques and materials and explains his artistic concept as one based on conscious appropriation. Telling visual stories of children appearing in splendid settings, he reveals their enchantment with art and particularly with the paintings of the great masters. Speaking to the concept of the tribe, he comments: “Two worlds, a crossing path. I feel driven by the same energy and insatiable envy to come up with something we have never seen before. It comes as a bombshell, provokes surprise, and arouses interest. Bringing different worlds together is my trademark, so I can’t wait to show you the Gully x Roger Dubuis mixture.”

Generously opening the doors to their respective workshops, Dr. Woo and Gully will begin their long-term partnerships with Roger Dubuis by first sharing their creative processes at work. Initially set to reinterpret the brand’s iconic astral signature, they will continue to co-create the future of Hyper Horology alongside the Maison.

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Breitling’s Heritage, Revived

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Inspired by the inventive spirit of Breitling’s founders, the new Premier Heritage Collection is for the modern and discerning man of impeccable taste. These exquisite timepieces are the brand’s most elegant and refined.

“This heritage-inspired design with a stylish modern twist embodies some of Breitling’s most famous innovations, and revives Breitling’s legacy of inventing the modern chronograph. This truly is our heritage revived,” says Georges Kern of Breitling’s timelessly elegant new collection.

The Premier Heritage Collection pays homage to Breitling’s very own Founders Squad: three generations of men who changed the history of timekeeping and made Breitling what it is today. Léon Breitling founded the company in 1884; later, he patented a simple timer/tachymeter that could measure any speed between 15 and 150 km/h, an invention featured in the 1906 Vitesse pocket watch.

In 1915, his son, Gaston, created one of the first wrist-worn chronographs with an independent pusher at 2 o’clock. This innovation separated the start, stop, and reset functions from the crown, making it infinitely more practical for timing sports.

In 1934, Léon’s grandson, Willy, patented the second independent chronograph pusher at 4 o’clock. Among Willy Breitling’s celebrated pioneering achievements was the establishment of the Huit Aviation Department in 1938.

Impeccable taste

Besides being bold and tech savvy, Willy Breitling understood people’s desire for a touch of elegance and glamour. This inspired him to design the original Premier wristwatches in the 1940s, Breitling’s first step in linking purpose with style. As Willy saw it, “When a man puts on his watch, it is the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.”

The latest generation of Premiers – Breitling’s Premier Heritage Collection – brings this timeless elegance back to life. The collection includes six watches divided into three distinctive categories: The Chronograph, The Duograph, and The Datora.

All feature Arabic numerals, vintage-inspired hands and semi-shiny alligator straps with tone-on-tone stitching. Every watch is a COSC-certified chronometer and water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Groundbreaking functions

The 40 mm Premier Heritage Chronograph is manually wound, just like its 1940s predecessors. It is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09, which is based on the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. It comes in two variations: with an eye-catching pistachio-green dial encased in stainless steel or a stately silver-colored dial encased in 18 k red gold.

With stainless-steel and 18 k red gold cases measuring 42 mm, the Premier Heritage Duograph comes with a blue or black dial, respectively. Its rattrapante function – one of the most elaborate in watchmaking – enables the wearer to measure two elapsed times simultaneously thanks to its two superimposed chronograph hands. This piece houses the mechanical hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B15, which is based on the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B03.

Like its 1940s predecessor, the 42 mm Premier Heritage Datora also stands out for its highly visible and complex functions, namely its day, date, and moon-phase displays. It is powered by the Manufacture Caliber B25. The Datora’s copper-colored face is framed by a stainless-steel case, while its silver-colored dial comes in an 18 k red gold one.

All three models of the Premier Heritage Collection highlight Breitling’s mastery of timekeeping as it has evolved over the generations.

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