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Roger Dubuis enters the ring with Canelo

MD Staff

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Roger Dubuis has chosen to support rising Mexican boxing star Santos Saúl Álvarez Barragán (aka Saul Canelo Alvarez or simply ‘Canelo’). Multiple world champion in two weight classes, Canelo is ranked as the world’s best active boxer, pound for pound.

Strength, determination and perseverance

At his highly anticipated September 15th rematch against current WBA, WBC, IBF and IBO middleweight world champion Gennady Golovkin, as well as at the pre-fight press conference, this powerful new brand ambassador will embody the identity codes of the Maison. This will include sporting the Roger Dubuis logo on his shorts during this pivotal prizefight.

“Championship belt” watch

To mark the first round of this hard-hitting alliance, Roger Dubuis is unveiling a reinterpretation of its signature Excalibur Automatic Skeleton. Known for its combination of technical excellence and stylistic extravagance, the Excalibur collection has captured the spirit of Roger Dubuis to the point of becoming its ultimate icon. This model is all about black and gold, emulating Canelo’s colours of choice on this momentous occasion. In addition to a strap made from the champion boxer’s own boxing gloves, the finest Roger Dubuis skills has been applied to transforming Canelo’s initials into the jumper spring, a functional part of the watch movement.

Thus equipped, this golden ‘championship’ belt is set to its mark on boxing and watchmaking history!

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BOVET Unveils Virtuoso IX at SIHH

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When imagining a new timepiece, BOVET 1822 owner Pascal Raffy relentlessly weighs contemporary interpretation against the Maison’s historical heritage to ensure coherence and harmony.

Considering the watchmaking practice of the Bovet brothers at the dawn of the 19th century reveals how perfectly they mastered traditional watchmaking and the decorative arts of the Académie. At the same time, they expressed a very contemporary and innovative vision, both technically and stylistically.

If art and watchmaking experts recognize the work of the Bovet brothers in all its diversity, it is because the common denominator between academic tradition and innovation has always been uncompromising quality, in the service of reliability, chronometry, elegance, and good taste. Pascal Raffy has tasked himself with achieving this same subtle balance in the design of the Tourbillon Amadéo® Fleurier Virtuoso IX.

This all-new caliber is housed in a 46.30-mm diameter Fleurier Amadéo® convertible case. A true icon of the Maison, the Amadéo® system transforms the timepiece into a reversible wristwatch, a pocket watch, or a table clock without the use of any tools. Additionally, the Virtuoso IX case is equipped with a fascinating new mechanism, allowing the case back to be opened simply by applying pressure to the crown. The proven ergonomics of the Fleurier case make this timepiece suited for everyday wear. In the same vein, its features  and complications will always be of use to the collector, both over time and throughout their travels.

The dial is meticulously organized for clarity, yet exudes a unique style. Only the minute hand is centered on the dial. The hour hand is offset at 2 o’clock, and a second hour hand, the 24- hour hand, displays a second time zone at 10 o’clock. Both local time and the secondary time zone thus share the minute hand. A corresponding indication displays the second time zone’s city name. Two lateral correctors make adjusting and selecting a time zone easy, all while taking into account the differences between daylight savings time and standard time

Logically, a big date indication is included with these complications, positioned on the right side of the dial. Its aperture opens wide without separating the tens from the units. The ingenuity of the Maison’s watchmakers allows the date to be displayed as big as possible while minimizing the space required for its mechanism.

The power reserve indicator sits at 8 o’clock, balancing the big date indicator and notifying the wearer at a glance just how much of the 10-day power supply remains.

The timepiece boasts an entirely new face on the reverse side. Though no dial is present, the hours and minutes are centered directly over the complex movement, an unobstructed and view enclosed within sapphire crystal. The openwork bridges evoke the iconic architecture of 19th century BOVET movements, each surface engraved with a sparkling “bris de verre” motif. Once engraved, chamfered, and entirely decorated, the bridges are coated with a blue CVD treatment, which contrasts beautifully with the rhodium plated platinum. This color combination was a favorite of the Bovet brothers usually employed on high polished or finely engraved surfaces.

On this same face, those with a keen-eye for detail will notice a circular opening at 12 o’clock that reveals an uncommon mechanism. The twice-patented spherical differential winding system. generates 10 days of power reserve for the Virtuoso IX from a single barrel. This feature demonstrates how the technicians and watchmakers at Maison BOVET have completely mastered the art of power reserve. The drawback of such a feat would be the time required to wind this type of spring. The differential spherical system ingeniously solves  this issue by halving the number of turns of the crown required to fully wind the timepiece, without increasing the torque of the winding mechanism.

For optimal chronometry, the movement is regulated by the patented double face flying tourbillon. In this innovative construction, the tourbillon’s fixed point is at the center of its axis. Its distribution on either side of the balance-spring and escapement significantly reduces the lever arm effect and improves the chronometry. The variable-inertia balance-wheel is based on the traditional balance-spring made in the Manufacture BOVET 1822 workshops, a science that less than ten watchmakers in the world have mastered. By manufacturing balance springs in house, BOVET 1822 can achieve complete quality control and the best performance possible by perfectly pairing the balance-wheel and balance-spring. Between technical and aesthetic refinement, the bridge carriage alone requires two days of labor to decorate and to round the arms before the faceted sapphire is set.

The true face of the timepiece, the dial, is by definition the focal component. With the Virtuoso IX, the Maison’s dial craftsmen once again showcase the extent of their combined talent. The base of the dial is finely guilloched with a sumptuous fan motif. Eight layers of translucent lacquer are then applied before the surface of the dial is polished. The flinqué dial is bathed in blue tones and highlights, reminiscent of the richness of 19th century enamels. As much for readability as for elegance, the hour contours and second gradations display both a circular satin and rhodium finish. The Virtuoso IX is available in white gold, red gold, or platinum.

The Virtuoso IX represents the culmination of two centuries of uncompromising artisanal watchmaking history and art in its noblest form, its ingenuity underlined by four unique patents. In keeping with the technical achievements and classical elegance championd by the Bovet brothers, these innovations serve: comfort, reliability, precision, elegance and aesthetics. After all, at BOVET, innovation has been an tradition since 1822.

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A rendez-vous between fine watchmaking and high jewellery

MD Staff

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An iconic complication lavishly adorned with gold and diamonds

Once again, the new Rendez-Vous Tourbillon casts a spell on dynamic women who love to surround themselves with refined pieces that glitter with understated confidence. At 6 o’clock, the tourbillon reveals its spectacularly complex system of predominantly hand-decorated gears. Seemingly suspended in mid-air, its balance wheel oscillates within the carriage to perform one revolution every 60 seconds, setting the beat of its high-precision automatic movement, the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Calibre 978.

Showcasing centuries of watchmaking expertise 

The tourbillon needs no introduction. Yet on each and every new interpretation designed by the engineers and artisans of the Grande Maison, this watch complication offers a captivating, almost hypnotic spectacle. The halo of brilliant-cut diamonds glittering on the bezel add to this sensation, mirrored on a smaller scale in the centre of the dial and around the tourbillon. Its adornment expresses the noble heritage of Rare Handcrafts executed by generations of artisans under the roof of the manufactory. They include the 215 hand-set diamonds, which require many hours of attention within the Rare Handcrafts workshop.

With the pink gold models embellished with the shimmering iridescence of mother-of-pearl, a delicate, almost vibrant femininity radiates from the central dial of the new Rendez-Vous Tourbillon. Its precious materials transform the watch into a piece of jewellery – one which glistens on the wrist and marks out the enchanted passing of time.

A star lights up a sophisticated setting

Fitted with the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Calibre 809/1, these two new interpretations of the Rendez-Vous Celestial showcase an iconic function that truly expresses the collection’s name. As it marks out its constant course, the mysterious star serves as a reminder of the time of a future rendezvous.

A sophisticated watch meets high jewellery 

A sky map, the ultimate feminine function, is encircled by a dazzling bezel set with either a graduated display of pink sapphires shifting into shades of amethyst or with brilliant-cut diamonds. Enhanced by a constantly moving star, the dial displays the changing constellations and signs of the zodiac, which are enamelled in shades of either pink-gold or silver to draw the eyes deep into the starry sky. In addition to the precious gem-setting, the enamelled floral numerals and twelve constellations perpetuate the traditions of Rare Handcrafts. To continue the glittering spectacle of the sapphires or diamonds in the dark, these two jewellery watches come alive at nightfall.

By embodying the values of high jewellery, these three new models complement a collection first created in the Manufacture’s workshops in 2012. It is a feminine collection in all senses of the word, intended to enhance women of the present and future as they live in complete harmony with their time. Dressed in this dazzling decoration, Rendez-Vous continues to invite the beholder to slowly discover constantly reinvented treasures in a range of forms. The high-precision automatic movement, precious gem-setting, refined finishes and confident aura of its floral numerals combine to make this an absolutely unmissable Rendez-Vous.

For several years, Jaeger‑LeCoultre has had a special connection to Cinema. To mark the Shanghai International Film Festival (SIFF), which it has sponsored since 2011, the Grande Maison is introducing a new limited edition as part of the Rendez-Vous Night & Day collection.

Dressed in crimson red, pink gold, and studded with diamonds, this limited edition of one hundred pieces pays homage to the glamorous world of red carpets and celebrities. The latest limited edition will have its world premiere during the SIFF 2018. The Grande Maison takes great delight in paying tribute to Cinema, and has created an exclusive edition, as in 2017, that pairs watchmaking tradition with feminine elegance in an exquisite model. The new Rendez-Vous Night & Day performs an unprecedented role with bold staging, showcasing crimson red on both its iconic function disc at 6 o’clock and on its glistening, bright red alligator-leather strap. It also appears on the winding crown in the guise of a garnet cabochon as red as film-star lips.

Fitted with the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Calibre 898A/1, the watch reveals a day/night indicator against a new backdrop. The Moon, which traditionally features on the models of this line, gives way to a five-pointed star. Could it be a tribute to cinema and its stars? Or a subtle reminder of one of the Rendez-Vous collection’s unique characteristics? In any event, this pink gold star gracefully glides across a crimson red background, which gives a subtle nod to the deep red of its strap. A bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds enhances this new expression and underscores the finely guilloché-adorned face of this sublimely feminine model, which can be discovered as a limited edition in Jaeger‑LeCoultre boutiques.

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Vacheron Constantin: Les Cabinotiers SIHH 2018

MD Staff

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Vacheron Constantin unveils two masterpieces in its highly exclusive Les Cabinotiers collection. Both of these two one-of-a-kind models hosts a number of the most demanding Haute Horlogerie complications, magnified by the art of engraving.

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »

This exceptional timepiece displays its multiple functions on two gold dials crafted in an elegant aubergine purple shade with a sunray satin-finish. The front dial is graced with applied hour-markers, Dauphine-type hands and finely snailed counters, suffused with the radiance of the finely crafted white gold case. The bezel, caseband, lugs and pin buckle are adorned with an ornamental pattern inspired by 19th century Victorian architecture. Reflecting the traditional skills cultivated by the Maison, this miniature sculpture represents a feat of dexterity and meticulous care, combining pounced ornament and bas-relief techniques with various types of fine line engraving. It required more than 150 hours of intricate hand-crafted goldsmithing using various burins and other specialised tools.

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »

This timepiece radiates charisma in a case adorned with two crocodiles and scales in varying sizes. Portraying the reptiles in relief, sculpted from a single block of metal using the pounced ornament technique and various types of fine line engraving (matt, sandblasted, brushed and polished) involves carefully controlled operations requiring virtuoso skill. The particular attention devoted to crafting the crocodile eyes underline the animal’ strength. The finesse of the work on the scales dotted across the bezel, lugs and caseback instil vibrant life, light and contrasts into this miniature masterpiece, born under the expert touch of an experienced master engraver. This pink gold workmanship makes a perfect match with the understated elegance of the two slate-coloured dials on the front and back of the watch. This eminently legible and refined display is enhanced on the front with pink gold applied hour-markers, leaf-shaped hands and finely snailed counters

Engraved with the inscriptions “Pièce Unique”, “Les Cabinotiers”, and bearing the “AC” (Atelier Cabinotiers) hallmark engraved on the caseback, Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication “Ornementale” et “Crocodile” watches are fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator strap secured by a hand-engraved buckle and presented in an opulent Makassar ebony wood winder box, complete with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass.

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