On July 15, EU agriculture ministers will convene to discuss the impact of insects, plant-based foods, and lab-grown meat on Europe’s culinary traditions. This discussion, driven by Hungary—which took over the rotating presidency of the Council of the European Union on 1 July, underscores a central tension: balancing innovation with the preservation of traditional food cultures. The Hungarian presidency has emphasized that meat and dairy products remain integral to European food heritage, despite the growing popularity of plant-based alternatives.
The rise of plant-based and novel foods
Consumption of plant-based foods has surged in Europe, with a fivefold increase since 2011, according to the European Commission. However, there is resistance to such changes, with Hungary and other countries voicing concerns over maintaining traditional food practices. The EU currently recognizes approximately 200 “novel foods,” with several hundred more applications pending approval. These include innovative food products and substances, as well as traditional foods from other parts of the world.
The controversy over Nutri-Score
Amid these broader conversations about sustainable eating, Brussels seems fixated on promoting the harmonization of front-of-pack (FOP) food labeling, despite growing resistance from individual member states. Nutri-Score, an example of an FOP label, a traffic-light-style system that rates the healthiness of packaged foods, has been adopted by several European countries but faces significant criticism. Recent research published in PharmaNutrition highlighted potential biases in studies favoring Nutri-Score, many of which were linked to its developers.
Portugal’s recent reversal on adopting Nutri-Score illustrates the growing discontent. The new government raised concerns about the previous administration’s decision, citing a lack of consultation with national food authorities and potential consumer confusion. The Portuguese Directorate-General for Food and Veterinary (DGAV) expressed reservations about Nutri-Score, suggesting that it might misrepresent the nutritional value of traditional Portuguese foods. This skepticism is shared by other member states wary of oversimplified nutritional labels.
Critics argue that Nutri-Score fails to capture the complexities of nutrition and can mislead consumers. The debate over its adoption has revealed deeper issues about the role of food labeling in public health policy.
Backlash from European regions and industries
Carole Delga, President of the Occitanie region in France, recently called for the exclusion of Nutri-Score, arguing that the system inaccurately assesses traditional products like olive oil and roquefort cheese. Delga’s criticisms underscore a broader issue: Nutri-Score tends to favor processed foods over raw, traditional ones, leading to misleading classifications. For instance, Nutri-Score rates olive oil poorly when assessed per Nutri-Score’s 100 grams/mL unit, a quantity far exceeding normal consumption. Similarly, traditional foods like roquefort cheese receive negative scores, prompting backlash from regions proud of their culinary heritage.
Furthermore, Spain’s ANFACO-CECOPESCA, representing the fishing and aquaculture industries, has voiced concerns about Nutri-Score and other regulatory measures impacting the sector. As Hungary holds the EU Council Presidency, these industry voices are pushing for a more nuanced approach that balances consumer information with the preservation of traditional practices and economic stability. The Spanish government faces the challenge of integrating sustainability, digital transformation, and social agenda priorities while maintaining a competitive edge in the global market.
Expert opinions on Nutri-Score
Jean-Michel Lecerf, a renowned French nutritional expert, has also criticized Nutri-Score. He argues that the system fails to consider the “matrix effect,” where nutrients have different impacts depending on the food they are contained in. For example, saturated fats in dairy products do not carry the same health risks as those in processed foods, but Nutri-Score does not differentiate between them. Lecerf also points out that Nutri-Score’s reliance on 100-gram portions can be misleading for foods typically consumed in smaller quantities, such as cheeses.
Lecerf further notes that the system does not adequately account for the nutritional benefits of animal proteins and calcium in dairy products. He suggests that Nutri-Score should be improved to reflect scientific knowledge better and to consider the context of food consumption. He emphasizes that while Nutri-Score aims to simplify nutritional information, it often provides an oversimplified and sometimes deceptive picture, failing to encourage a balanced and varied diet.
Prioritizing meaningful food policy
The emphasis on labeling by Brussels, when larger, more impactful conversations are being had about our food heritage and sustainable eating, highlights a significant misalignment in priorities. Individual Member States continue to reject Nutri-Score, favoring more nuanced approaches that respect their culinary traditions and provide clearer guidance to consumers. Nutri-Score neatly encapsulates a troubling disconnect from the diverse culinary and cultural contexts of its member states.
As Europe continues to explore sustainable food practices, the experiences and criticisms from member states provide valuable insights. The shift towards more sustainable eating habits is not just about new foods but about rethinking our entire approach to food production and consumption. Whether through the adoption of more nuanced labeling systems or by genuinely addressing the environmental impacts of food production, the conversation about what we eat and how it impacts the planet is becoming increasingly critical.
Ultimately, Brussels must recognize that effective food policy requires balancing innovation with tradition and addressing the real concerns of member states. The fixation on Nutri-Score distracts from more substantial issues related to food sustainability and heritage. As Europe navigates these complexities, a more holistic approach that considers the diverse culinary practices and environmental needs of its member states will be essential for fostering a sustainable and culturally rich future of food.